Bella Blog

Safe Skin Care for Sun Protection~ Part One

It's the time of year to enjoy the summer sun!  Choosing a safe sunscreen be quite confusing these days.  When evaluating a product, I have clients look at both the active sun protective ingredients, plus the inactive ingredients that list the potentially harmful synthetic fillers and preservatives.  I will share this information over a series of blog entries.

Let's start with the basics:

First, what's the difference between UVA vs UVB rays?

• UVA Rays: UVA rays are harmful to the skin.  They are responsible for skin cancers including malignant melanoma.  Remember these rays as Aging rays since they cause wrinkles and skin aging.  They can penetrate through glass and also penetrate the skin more deeply than UVB rays (see below). These rays remain constant throughout the day and time of year.  The FDA does not require sunscreen manufacturers to have UVA filters, however the FDA just stated that they are re-evaluating their sunscreen regulations effective next year. 
• UVB Rays: UVB rays, or Burn rays, are the primary cause of sunburn and non-melanoma skin cancers, such as squamous cell and basal cell carcinoma.   These rays are highest mid-day and help our bodies to produce vitamin D

What does SPF mean?

The SPF on your bottle of sunscreen indicates the length of time you can stay outside in the sun without incurring sunburn or irritation from UVB rays.  Currently, there is no standard to measure protection from UVA rays.

• Calculate your protection time, the amount of time you can stay outside before burning:
  • Multiply the sun safety time for your skin type with the SPF listed on your sunscreen. eg. 15 minutes (for olive skin) x SPF 20 = 300 minutes (5 hours) of sun protection

Fortunately the FDA just released, that starting next summer they will require the following regulations on sunscreen:

• Sunscreens to prove they filter out both Ultraviolet B rays and Ultraviolet A rays to claim they protect against skin cancer.
• If they don't protect against both, or the sun protection factor is below 15, then they have to carry a warning: "This product has been shown only to help prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or early skin aging."
• The FDA will prohibit sunscreen marketing claims like "waterproof" and "sweatproof," which the agency said "are exaggerations of performance."
• The FDA also proposes capping the highest SPF value at 50, unless companies can provide results of further testing that support a higher number.
• Source: Associate Press- New Rules to Cut Confusion on Sunscreen Claims By Matthew Perrone

What's the difference between Physical and Chemical Sun Blockers?

• Chemical sunscreen ingredients: Chemical blockers are absorbed into the skin and disperse rays.  Typically, sunscreens are composed of several active ingredients since no single chemical ingredient blocks the entire UV spectrum (unlike physical sunblocks). Instead, most chemicals only block a narrow region of the UV spectrum.  The majority of chemical agents used in sunblock work in the UVB region.  Only a few chemicals block the UVA region.
  • Examples include:
    • Benzophenones (dixoybenzone, oxybenzone)
    • PABA and PABA esters (ethyl dihydroxy propyl PAB,  glyceryl PABA, p-aminobenzoic acid, padimate-O or octyl dimethyl PABA)
    • Cinnamates (cinoxate, ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate)
    • Salicylates (ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, octyl salicylate)
    • Digalloyl trioleate
    • Menthyl anthranilate
    • Avobenzone [butyl-methyoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol 1789

• Physical or mineral sun blocking ingredients: When applied, lay on the surface of the skin and create a barrier that reflects both UVA and UVB rays.
  • Examples include:
    • Titanium dioxide
    • Zinc oxide

  •  

Zenned out. Create your own Home Spa Detox.

 

This past weekend, I actually had some down time and thought what better way to spend that time than to create my own Home Spa Detox experience.  It doesn't take much to find that inner Zen that we all yearn for during the chaos of our busy lives. The following our some tips on how to create a relaxing and detoxifying experience in the comfort of your own home.

I began my home detox day with a green drink, combining 1 scoop of Amazing grass in almond milk before heading to the gym.  Wheat grass is a great binder, and great to take before doing anything where you could potentially release stored toxins.  Other binders include: chlorella, charcoal, or green clay. 

My gym has a sauna and steam room which are essential to staying sane in the damp grey climate of Seattle.  Don't worry, if you don't have access to either a sauna or steam room I'll share with you on how to get around this in a bit.  I did the elliptical for 30 minutes while reading a light hearted magazine.  The gentle exercise was enough to get my temperature up and get my lymph moving.  I then headed to the steam room with my stainless steel water bottle (don't bring plastic into the heat) that had some electrolytes. Emergen C packets work great. 

Hydrotherapy has a golden rule of 3's: 3 minutes hot, 30 seconds cold, repeat 3 times always ending on cold.  I used this as my guideline to enjoy the benefits of contrast hydrotherapy to get my blood and lymph moving.  I stayed longer than 3 minutes in the steam room until I got too hot, then I jumped in a cold shower ready to return to the steam room.  I did this 3 times ending with cold.  Hydrotherapy gives me that natural high where my body truly feels relaxed.  I followed this with a glass of coconut water, which is an enjoyable way to get hydrated.

If you don't have access to a steam room/sauna, do the Golden rule of 3's in your shower.  This is an excellent detoxifying treatment.

After the steam room, I drew a detox bath.  I'm lucky enough to have ISun's detox bath to hop in.  If you don't have a detox bath soak handy, 2 cups of Epsom salts added to a warm bath is an amazing mineral rich detox bath.  Before jumping in the bath, use a dry skin brush to gently move lymph and exfoliate your skin.  Read my earlier post to learn the proper way to dry skin brush.  Make your bath even more luxurious by applying a facial mask.  Don't have one?  Apply a thin layer of organic honey on your skin,which is a great source of enzymes, amino acids, and has antimicrobial benefits.  Your skin will be glowing.  For even greater enjoyment, sip on Yogi Detox Tea.

So there you have it.  May you find the time to tap into your inner Zen.  Your body, mind, and spirit will thank you!

Lighten Up Your Eyes

Ever stare into the mirror and see that your eyes cannot hide how tired you are feeling?  Many people inquire on how to lighten dark circles, de-puff their under eye area, and combat crow's feet.  I have a few tricks to do just this.

In Chinese Medicine, the under eye area corresponds to the kidney, liver, and stomach region.  Dark circles usually signify the kidneys are overexerted and the body is has having difficulty eliminating.  In addition, an individual may have low "digestive fire" compromising their ability to digest and absorb their food.  Internally, I recommend adequate hydration.  The formula is half your body weight in ounces of water per day.  Add fresh lemon juice to your water, this helps in absorption and will make your liver happy.  I also recommend nightly castor oil packs to support liver function and 1 tbsp of apple cider vinegar before meals to get the digestive juices flowing.  And of course sleep!  I will also call on homeopathic drainage remedies to enhance the functioning of these organs.

Topically, I have found that Leaf People Eye Serum is unlike any other eye cream or serum on the market.  It is oil based so it's easily absorbed into the delicate skin of the eye area.  The combination of botanicals increases circulation to lighten up dark circles, depuff the under eyes, and over time strenghtens collagen to diminish crow's feet.  Your eyes will brighten up with one application.  Try Leaf People's Eye Serum today!

What's that Smell? The Truth behind "Fragrance..."

Next time you reach for your favorite perfume, know that you may be spritzing yourself with a mix of chemicals that are hidden behind the ingredient listing fragrance.  Under pressure, the fragrance industry has begun to disclose the 3,163 ingredients that could potentially be making up each scent.  Allergens, neurotoxins, endocrine disruptors are among these compounds. Avoid products that contain fragrance, and choose trusted brands that use essentials oils for fragrance. 

You can read the full report by the Environmental Working Group and Campaign for Safe Cosmetics below:

Environmental Working Group's Not So Sexy Report
Not So Sexy Report by The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics

Skin Brushing for Healthy Skin

Dry skin brushing is not only healthy for your skin, but for your entire body.  The skin is a vital organ of detoxification and has been called the "third kidney" for its important role in water regulation.  Every square inch contains hundreds of pores that help excrete toxins from the skin. 

It is a commonly recommended therapy in Naturopathic medicine due to its numerous health benefits:

• Stimulates lymphatic drainage making it a great way to detoxify your body on a regular basis. 
• Enhances blood circulation by increasing venous flow.
• Tonifies muscles and nerves of the skin having an overall relaxation effect on the body.
• Improves body temperature regulation.
• Exfoliates the skin, removing excess dead skin cells creating a healthy glow.
• Improves skin tone by stimulating collagen and elastin. 
• Great for reducing cellulite!
• Improves overall energy and vitality.

The best time to brush is either before your shower ending in it in a series of alternating hot or cold water, espom salt bath, or before you go to bed.  Use a natural fiber brush, brushing in the direction the body's lymphatic drainage.  It is important to "open" up areas of lymphatic drainage before brushing lymph into these regions.  Also, always brush the area that drains first to clear the way for the lymph below.  For example, brush the area under your armpit before brushing your chest or arms.  Brush your arms from your elbow to shoulder before wrist to elbow.  As a rule of thumb, start on the left side of the body.  Each area should be brushed 7 times.

Areas that should be avoided:

• Active cancer
• Varicose Veins
• Arthritis
• Open wounds, skin lesions, eruptions, or burns
• Sunburned skin
• Enlarged or hardened lymph nodes

To learn more visit: Vital Chi Skin Brushing

Special thanks to Dr. Thom and Dr. Beck for teaching me the importance of dry skin brushing!

Cleansing Drinks for your Skin

Spring is a great time for cleansing!  The extra daylight hours bring forth a vibrant renewal of energy allowing us to shed what we've acquired over the winter months.  It's a great time to do Spring cleaning of our own bodies so that we can enjoy the energy of this season.

Cleansing typically involves eating an organic whole foods diet, and taking a break from the things that have been keeping us going such as  caffeine, alcohol, and/or sugar.  In addition, cleansing focuses on supporting our primary organs of elimination which include our: liver, kidneys, lungs, intestines, and skin.  The skin is our largest excretory organ and can become compromised when our other organs of elimination are overburdened.  Thus, the skin always benefits from cleansing.  Ways to optimize the ability of these organs to eliminate properly is through eating an organic diet, drinking purified water, exercise, dry skin brushing, and castor oil packs to name a few.  See my blog post: Creating a Day of Wellness for more info.

Your skin will benefit greatly by incorporating fresh vegetable juices or herbal teas aimed at cleansing the body.

  

Do you have a vegetable juicer or blender?  Below are some ideas of fruits and vegetables to combine for a juice.  Be creative and try out your own!

1) Apple, Beet, Kale, Ginger

2) Carrot, Celery, Parsley, Lemon

Apples:  Full of vitamins and minerals, plus a soluble fiber called pectin that supports the intestines in elimination.

Beets:  The high mineral content make this veggie a great blood cleanser and blood builder.  Beets are very supportive for your liver.  Word of caution, don't be alarmed if you notice a beet color in your toilet after consumption.

Kale:  A dark leafy green rich in calcium, iron, chlorophyll, and beta carotene.

Ginger:  Stimulates your digestive fire.

Carrots: Full of beta carotene, calcium and other minerals.  Also a source of pectin that is great for intestinal cleansing. 

Celery:  Full of minerals that calm the nervous system.

Parsley:  Rich in beta carotene, vitamin C, chlorophyll, and minerals.  Both a blood cleansing herb and diuretic.

Lemon:  Great source of vitamin C and bioflavonoids.  The sour taste helps purify the liver and stimulates peristalsis in the intestines.

Herbal Teas:

Botanicals for the skin include: Sarsaparilla, Yellow Dock, Burdock, Oregon Grape, Red Clover, Nettle.  These blood cleansing botanicals improve the function of the liver, large intestine, and kidneys. 

You can either go to your favorite bulk herb shop and make your own combination herbal tea or reach for these convenient teas at your health food store.

Yogi Detox Tea:

Indian Saraparilla Root, Cinnamon Bark, Ginger Root, Licorice Root, Burdock Root, Dandelion Root, Cardamom Seed, Clove Bud, Black Pepper, Long Pepper Berry, Chinese Amur Cork Tree Bark, Japanese Honeysuckle Flower, Forsythia Fruit, Gardenia Flower, Skullcap Leaf, Chinese Goldenthread Root,Rhubarb Root, Wax Gourd, Juniper Berry Extract

New Yogi Skin Detox Tea:

Burdock Root, Cardamom Seed, Dandelion Root, Green Tea Leaf, Hibiscus Flower, Honeybush, Orange Peel, Oregon Grape Root, Red Clover, Rose Petal, Stevia Leaf, Yellow Dock Root, Natural Flavors

The Republic of Tea Get Gorgeous Tea:

Organic Rooibos (leaf), Orange (peel), Hibiscus (flower), Chamomile (flower), Red Clover (flower), Chaste Berry (fruit), Burdock (root). Other Ingredients: Natural Pomegranate Flavor

Chocolate Coffee Sugar Scrub

Indulge your senses and get luxuriously smooth skin with this gentle exfoliating scrub.  Inspired by my recent trip to Hawaii when I picked up a local Kona coffee cacoa sugar scrub.  You can recreate this scrub in your own home. Coffee stimulates circulation, while chocolate is full of antioxidants, and sugar exfoliates.  Use in the shower and follow with a moisturizing body lotion or oil.

Chocolate Coffee Sugar Scrub

2 cups ground organic coffee

1/2 cup brown sugar

1-2 tbsp cocoa powder

1 tbsp honey

1/4 cup almond oil

Mix ingredients together.  You can adjust ratios to make the scrub consistency you desire.  Enjoy this invigorating and revitalizing scrub!

What's Your Dosha?

 

On a recent trip to NYC, I was able to stop in Pratima Spa located in Soho.  This spa has been on my list of places to check out since reading Absolute Beauty by Pratima Raichur.  This book embodies the Ayurvedic approach to health and beauty.  Ayurveda is a Sanskrit word that literally translates to the “science of life.” Ayurvedic medicine is an ancient system of healing from India dating back more than 3000 years.  In this system of medicine, remedies are prescribed according to your individual dosha.  There are 3 doshas, Vata, Pitta, and Kapha, which represent the five elements found in nature.  Vata represents the space and air elements, Pitta represents fire and water, and Kapha represents water and earth.  Each of us has all 3 doshas within us, but we usually have one dosha that is dominant (you can also be a combination).  The goal of Ayurveda is to bring balance to your dosha using qualities from the other elements.  For example, Vata skin needs Pitta and Kapha to bring balance to this skin type.  Many skin care lines are formulated using Ayurvedic dosha skin typing.  Pratima has a beautiful natural skin care line doing just this. 

 

So what is your dosha?  Read below to see which skin type sounds most like you.  Remember you can be a combination of more than one.  You can also use the skin type quiz found on my website.   A clear complexion is a result of balancing whichever dosha your skin embodies.

 

Vata: Vata skin has a tendency to be dry, thin, rough, cold and flaky.  The complexion may have a bluish undertone, small fine pores, and fine lines and wrinkles.  Problem areas are in the forehead region.  Vata skin is prone to dehydration and dryness especially in cold weather.

 

Pitta: Pitta skin usually has areas of redness and is typically sensitive.  It is soft, slightly oily, and hot with large pores in the T-zone, and small fine pores throughout the rest of the skin.  Pitta skin has broken capillaries, moles, and freckles.  Problem areas can be in the T-zone and/or cheeks.  It is prone to inflammation, rashes, and sunburns especially in hot weather.  

 

Kapha: Kapha skin is oily, thick, moist and cold.  There is a yellowish undertone and pores are large and open.  This skin type has blackheads and excessive oiliness, and is prone to acne and pimples in the mouth, chin, and neck region. 

 

The goal of your skin care routine should be to bring balance to your dosha both internally and externally.   Ayurvedic home care includes cleansing, nourishing, and moisturizing.  Pratima recommends a regime that includes warm, nourishing, calming, hydrating, and lubricating qualities for Vata skin; cooling, soothing, and hydrating qualities for Pitta skin, and hot, stimulating, and invigorating qualities for Kapha skin.

 

Leaf People Skin Care formulations correlate as follows: Vata-Transform, Pitta-Nourish, Kapha-Balance.  Find out more at Bella Fiore Organics.

This information comes from Pratima Raichur’s book Absolute Beauty.

Create a Day of Wellness

 

A few weeks ago, I celebrated my 29^th birthday and had the luxury of a day free from class and any obligations.  In the spirit of reflecting on another year, I decided to create a wellness day for myself.  I met my good friend Alexis and my runny buddy, Coop, for coffee and a walk around the neighborhood.  We didn’t let the rain stop us, I have enjoyed many early morning walks with Alexis as we catch up and set intentions in motion for things we are working on.  Next, I found myself at yoga class at the new 8 limbs yoga studio down street.  The teacher was a woman who used to teach lunch-time yoga at Bastyr, one of my first real experiences cultivating a yoga practice.  She connected me with my breath, and I could feel myself in my body again.  I then was off to the Olympus Day Spa a little north of Seattle.  I took advantage of the free birthday admission.  This Korean women’s spa is full of different therapeutic rooms, pools, steams, and saunas.  I treated myself to a body wrap.  After heating up in the charcoal room, my body was painted in mud and then wrapped in three layers.  My core temperature rose, and I had a good detoxifying sweat.  I then was blessed to have my good friends cook dinner for me and my boyfriend, Dan.  I felt completely relaxed and rejuvenated!

 

I was thinking how differently we all would feel if we gave ourselves permission to declare a day of wellness for ourselves.  It doesn’t take an expensive trip to the spa either.  Check out these suggestions to customize your day of wellness:

1) Fast from technology.  Give yourself permission to turn of the TV, not answer your cell phone, and don’t check your email.  Feel the freedom of unplugging and concurrently give yourself a break from electromagnetic frequencies.

2) Drink herbal teas or lemon water.  Herbal tea is a great way to nourish your body and calm your mind with healing botanicals.  I like Yogi Tea’s Detox blend.  Also, you can go to your local botanical store and create your own blend.  Add lemon slices to your water to stimulate your liver and digestion.  Hydration is key to good health.

3) Do yoga in the comfort of your own home or your favorite studio.   Nowadays you can download yoga videos right onto your computer.  I have been enjoying Yoga Download.com (this is your only excuse to use the computer.)  Many studios offer introductory specials, use this as a way to find a studio that is right for you.

4) Take a relaxing salt bath.  Mineral salt baths are full of trace minerals that are absorbed into the body and can alleviate muscle aches and pains, increase circulation, and be detoxifying.  Create your own using a blend of Epsom salts, Himalayan or Dead Sea Salt.  You can add relaxing botanicals like calendula, lavender, rose, or lemon balm or essential oils like lavender, rosemary, or sandalwood to your soak.  Check out the post Relaxing Herbal Bath Tea Bags or try a Leaf People Bath Soak.

5) Castor oil packs.  This is a popular Naturopathic remedy to detoxify the body and relieve lymphatic congestion.  Apply castor oil over your abdomen and liver, cover with a towel that you don’t care about, and then apply heat with a hot water bottle for 15-30 minutes.  Use this time to meditate, take a nap, or read a book.

6) Dry skin brushing.  With a loofah or dry skin brush, sweep over your body with gentle upward strokes always in the direction of your heart.  This will not only exfoliate the skin, but also stimulate circulation and lymph flow. 

7) Treat your skin to a mask.  Whether you have a favorite mask or want to create your own using clay, mud, or the leftovers in your kitchen, treat your skin to what it desires with a natural therapeutic mask.  Check out Rosemary Gladstar’s Family Herbal for recipe ideas.

8) Journal.  With the New Year approaching, journaling is a great way to reflect, set your intentions, alleviate your anxiety, and give voice to what is on your mind.  I have journaled before going to bed for many years, it has helped ease my mind and also look back on how I’ve grown over the years.

9) Breathe.  I study with a doctor who says carbon dioxide is the most toxic substance to the body and it accumulates when we don’t take the time to deeply breathe.  My cousin gave out reminder notes this Christmas, that say take 10 deep breaths.  Whether you post a reminder, set aside time during the day, find yourself at a stop light, or need to go within use the power of deep inhalation and exhalation from your diaphragm.

10) Be gentle with yourself.  Detox from negative self-talk and set your intent on being kind to yourself.   Count your blessings and be grateful for the fullness of your life.

 

Make it a New Year’s Resolution to give yourself a day of wellness.  Better yet, make a commitment to yourself and your well-being to try and incorporate a wellness ritual into your daily routine. 

Feel the benefits of relaxation and peace!